main courses (les plats)

my garbure

January 26th, 2012

Garbure or stone soup

Peasant stew.  Fit for a king and royally good: 
my garbure

This month second graders all across America are reading as many books as they can that have been awarded the Caldecott Honor.  One of my favorite Caldecott books is Stone Soup by Marcia Brown. The book is about three hungry soldiers who convince (or trick) a town of peasants to make soup from stones (and other on-hand, but hidden, ingredients). The effort culminates in a soup that the peasants declare is “fit for a king.” While we are not making soup from stones, the ability to make a simple yet hearty soup with on-hand ingredients (and a few seasonal vegetables which I consider under-used but easily obtainable) is the inspiration for this week’s simple pleasure, my garbure. Read the rest of this entry »

 

flaxseed and pepper crusted seared Ahi tuna with two watermelon radish sides

January 5th, 2012

 

picnic weather, watermelon radishes, and keeping that New Year’s resolution:

 flaxseed and pepper crusted seared Ahi tuna served with
roasted golden beets and watermelon radishes with blood orange segments and 
a cucumber, watermelon radish and celery cru

The most common New Year’s resolution is to eat better, meaning healthier, lighter foods. The new year brings with it a renewed sense of determination and purpose but like all goals, our ambitions need inspiration and newness to keep them going. 

Yesterday at farmer’s market I overheard a father say to his child that the radishes she wanted looked good but “what do we do with them?” Inspired by his query, I bought some of those beautiful watermelon radishes (thank you Michael at McGrath Family Farm), and armed with a 2012 agenda of healthy habits and summer weather all around me, I thought this week we should take these watermelon (radishes) on a picnic so this week’s simple pleasure is not one but three recipes which are not only good for you but taste great and, when combined, are an average of 350 calories. So grab your “pic-i-nic” basket, we are taking a picnic in January with our seasonal market treasures and keeping our New Year’s resolution in tact all at the same time. This is going to be a good year. Read the rest of this entry »

 

goodbyes, cherished moments and setting fire to the rain: my family pot-au-feu

December 23rd, 2011

Beef Stew

goodbyes, cherished moments and setting fire to the rain:
my family pot-au-feu

It rained on Mulholland as I ran to Adele’s song “Set Fire to the Rain.” Impeccable timing and the idea of setting fire to the chilly weather compelled me to run straight to the kitchen to make pot-au-feu (pot of fire). I had no idea then that it would take on the significance that it now has. In the holiday spirit of sharing, this week I share with you my family recipe for  pot-au-feu.  Read the rest of this entry »

 

look what the wind blew in: souffléd herb and chèvre omelette

December 1st, 2011

look what the wind blew in: souffléd herb and chèvre omelette 
(a great way to lighten up post-Thanksgiving)

This week I bought my youngest daughter Les œufs verts au jambon (Dr. Seuss’s classic Green Eggs and Ham, in French). As we read it, I could hear the wind howling outside and I thought of a friend’s comment about feeling like an anchor after the consumption of turkey, stuffing, potatoes, sweet potatoes, and gravy.  So what does a chef think of while reading green eggs and ham, listening to the wind, and obsessing on “lighter”, leaner foods? Whisked egg whites with a little green and the inspiration for this week’s simple pleasure:  souffléd herb and chèvre omelette.

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gobble, gobble, gone: perfectly roasted turkey

November 20th, 2011

Turkey Wish Bone

 gobble, gobble, gone: perfectly roasted turkey

There are several occupational hazards to being a chef. One hazard is the repetitive slumping over counters and stovetops which sometimes sends me to the chiropractor, as it did again this week. Looking at my crooked frame, he asked me what I did to get myself in this mess. “I am a chef,” I replied. “That is funny,” he said, “I was just going to say that it smells like Thanksgiving in here.” Just then I got a whiff of my own hair which smelled like . . .  well, roasted turkey. Occupational hazard number two: smelling like the food you are cooking.

The turkey smell made me think of the first time I cooked a Thanksgiving turkey. I was in college, wanting to demonstrate my culinary and domestic enthusiasm for my boyfriend and his parents.  I am paraphrasing, but I believe it was Thomas Edison who said that that he had not failed but he “found 10,000 ways that [wouldn’t] work.”  That Thanksgiving produced many turkey discoveries.

My first discovery was that purchasing a 22 pound turkey for 6 people is just too much turkey.  My second discovery was that it takes a long time for a 22 pound turkey to thaw. I could not get it brined in time for the planned meal, nor could I defrost it fast enough. This massive, flightless poultry-iceburg was too large for my tiny apartment kitchen sink and I was forced to defrost it under cold, running water in the bathtub (of course I left it in plastic wrapping but the whole thing, image and all, was just wrong). However, this turkey’s Calgon moment was not the last of the trouble this bird would cause me for when it was time to pull it from the oven, the heavy bird tipped in the roasting pan, the pan fell forward, the turkey landed on the open oven door and turkey sucs, the grease, and the roasting liquid gushed all over the oven, the oven door, and the kitchen floor. Major mishap for me but manna from Heaven for my Yorkshire terrier who jumped in the lake of turkey juice lapping it up, and then ran throughout the apartment tracking her greasy paws on the 80’s white (white!) carpet, and bouncing on the furniture to allude capture. 

It was a culinary and housekeeping disaster: apartment a greasy mess; gravy nonexistent; dog vomiting from the rich turkey sucs; and overcooked, mushy or dry side dishes (as my attention was focused on salvaging the turkey and cleaning up the mess). I laugh about it now and I also know that I am not alone. Everyone has a turkey gone bad story. Overcooked. Undercooked. Turkey frozen in the middle. Turkey on fire. After over twenty years of practice, culinary school, and teaching others, I have discovered many ways that do not work and things that do. Making sure your Thanksgiving turkey turns out just right was the inspiration for this week’s simple pleasure: perfectly roasted turkey.

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perfectly roasted turkey

November 20th, 2011

perfectly roasted turkey

stats:

approximate 2 ¾ – 3 hours roasting time
serves 8

what you need:

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duck, duck, tart: duck and kale savory tartlet with black chanterelles, fresh sage and thyme

November 11th, 2011

Duck Tart

duck, duck, tart: 
duck and kale savory tartlet with black chanterelles, fresh sage and thyme 

“Duck, duck, goose…” On a recent return from France I sat next to a man from Toulouse and our conversation began by discussing ducks and geese, although in the culinary-sense, not related to the childhood game. It was an natural topic of conversation because Toulouse is well-known for its ducks and geese and boasts regional specialities such as foie gras, cassoulet, and garbure. The temperature has finally caught up with the calendar and everyone is craving comfort food. My transatlantic conversation (and the fact that it is duck season) inspired this week’s simple pleasure: duck and kale savory tartlets with black chanterelles, fresh sage, and thyme. Comfort food, redefined. Read the rest of this entry »

 

harvest tajine with a haricots verts broomstick

October 27th, 2011

 

 harvest tajine with a haricots verts broomstick

 stats:

serves 4-6

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Just put your lips together and blow: almond and dandelion greens pesto

September 29th, 2011

Crushing Pesto

Just put your lips together and blow: almond and dandelion greens pesto (with pasta and roasted chicken)

“One man’s weeds are another’s dinner,” I thought, as I plucked the dandelions growing alongside the sidewalk while a man stared at me as I weeded his front property.  While he saw a runner picking weeds, I saw culinary possibilities. I blew on the feathery flowers (just for fun) and as the fuzzy petals hit the breeze I wished that more people used dandelion greens in their cooking repertoire rather than pass them up. Although I did not eat these (you never know what kind of fertilizer they had…) it was this wish which was the inspiration for this week’s simple pleasure: almond and dandelion greens pesto. Read the rest of this entry »

 

palate fatigue, heat stroke and a cool, new way to enjoy lobster

September 8th, 2011

 

chilled lobster farce in balsamic and muscat reduction served with an arugula, herb and apple mille-feuille

palate fatigue, heat stroke and a cool, new way to enjoy lobster 

I recently dined with a friend of mine who is also a chef in a Los Angeles. Naturally, we discussed food and the subject of “palate fatigue” arose  (his phrase, which I quickly latched onto). Palate fatigue is when you are tired of seeing the same food or food prepared the same way. It happens to everyone, not just chefs. Newness is necessary. Thoughts of “palate fatigue,” lobster season, and trying to stay cool in this sweltering California heat resulted in this week’s simple pleasure: chilled lobster farce in balsamic and muscat reduction served with an arugula, herb and apple mille-feuille. Something new. Something cool. Something simple. Something good. Read the rest of this entry »