recipes

Abbaye de Belloc avec compote de cerises épicée (Abbaye de Belloc with spicy cherry compote)

June 2nd, 2011

Abbaye de Belloc avec compote de cerises épicée (Abbaye de Belloc with spicy cherry compote)

Abbaye de Belloc avec compote de cerises épicée
(Abbaye de Belloc with spicy cherry compote)

stats:

yield: serves 6 (with compote leftover)

what you need:

11 ounces de-pitted fresh cherries
2 1/2 ounces superfine sugar
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon cherry brandy
3/4 teaspoon piment d’espelette
1/3 cup water

6 ounces of Abbaye de Belloc or another Ossau-Iraty Brébis de Pyrénées cheese

how to:

  • Prepare And Macerate Cherries.  Remove stems and pits from cherries.  Toss cherries with lemon juice, brandy, piment, and sugar and place in the refrigerator overnight.
  • Poach. Place macerated cherries in a saucepan over low heat.  Add water.  Poach cherries (between 160 and 180 degrees Fahrenheit) until softened (about 10-15 minutes).  The cherries should collapse slightly but still retain but retain their shape.
  • Drain.  Remove cherries with a slotted spoon and set aside.  Turn the heat to medium-high and continue to cook the poaching liquid until you reach about 220 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy thermometer.  Remove from the heat and let the compote cool to room temperature.  Compote can be made in advance and stored in the refrigerator.
  • Serve. Serve compote at room temperature with one ounce of cheese.

Abbaye de Belloc avec compote de cerises épicée (Abbaye de Belloc with spicy cherry compote)

 

time for summer: panier de crudités avec anchoïade

May 26th, 2011

 

panier de crudités avec anchoïade

panier de crudités avec anchoïade

 

This Memorial Day weekend  get a jump on summer with a Provençal panier de crudités avec anchoïade. You will feel like you are on vacation at the Côte d’Azur and that is why it is this week’s “simple pleasure. Read the rest of this entry »

 

Pain perdu: here is to finding your bread with jam and without “préservatifs”

May 19th, 2011

Girl eating jam with spoon

Pain perdu:
here is to finding your bread with jam and without the “préservatifs”

Pain perdu literally means “lost bread” but the loose translation means to make use of old bread.  To Americans “pain perdu” is “French bread” and eaten at breakfast with maple syrup. In France pain perdu is enjoyed as a dessert or by children for their afternoon goûter. It is not served with syrup but with homemade confiture(or jam as we know it). While many recipes embellish pain perdu with nuts, liquors, zests, fancy butters and/or syrups (and that is all good) we are making pain perdu with classic French simplicity and this easy and delicious dessert is this week’s simple pleasure.

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are you sure this is not dessert ? savory beet tart with pecan and beet greens pesto and burrata

May 12th, 2011

are you sure this is not dessert ?
savory beet tart with pecan and beet greens pesto and burrata

Children are not the only ones who like to play with food and this week’s simple pleasure is just that: a healthy play on a dessert. Although it resembles a fruit tart with ice cream, we eliminate the sweet pastry dough, the pastry crème, fruit, and ice cream and replace them with a no-sugar crust, pesto filling (made with pecans and the fresh beet greens), roasted beets, and a side of cheese. Trop Miam ! (so yummy).  This unique savory tart can be made in advance and assembled the day you want to serve it.  It can be a starter or served with a salad as meal. If you do not want to make a tart, I also tell you how to make tartine (sandwich) out of the ingredients. Unique, healthy, and versatile and that is why this savory beet tart is this week’s simple pleasure.

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classic tomato sauce

May 5th, 2011

classic tomato sauce

stats:

makes 6 cups

what you need:

2  28 ounce cans of San Marzano plum tomatoes with juice
(or in the summer 4 pounds fresh Roma tomatoes from your garden)
olive oil (as needed)

1/2 cup diced pancetta (or ground veal)
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup diced onions
1/4 cup diced carrots
1/4 cup diced celery
1 tablespoon sea salt
1 sachet (1 bay leaf, Italian parsley, 5 peppercorns)
1/4 cup olive oil
2 teaspoons kosher salt (or as needed)
1/2 teaspoon fresh ground pepper (or as needed)

for your pasta

fresh egg pasta (as needed)
fresh basil chiffonnade (optional)
freshly grated aged Parmesan cheese (optional)
crushed and dried Pepperoncino flakes (optional)

how to:

  • Prepare Tomatoes.  Place tomatoes in a food mill fit with a fine disc.  Set aside.  Discard seeds and skins.
  • Render Fat. In a stockpot or large saucepan over a medium-high flame, add pancetta and cook until fat is rendered.  Drain off excess fat. If you eliminate the pancetta, heat about 1 tablespoon of olive oil in the pan.
  • Sweat Aromatics. Add garlic. Once fragrant, add the onions, carrots and celery.  Cook until tender.
  • Simmer. Add the tomatoes and juice that were passed through the vegetable mill.  Add olive oil, salt and sachet.  Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer.  Simmer until it reduces to the consistency you want (about an hour).  However, do not over-reduce
  • Purée.  Remove sachet and discard.  Use a blender or immersion blender to purée sauce.
  • Adjust Seasoning. Taste.  Add salt and/or freshly ground black pepper as needed.

 

what to do with all of those Easter eggs: asparagus à la flamande

April 28th, 2011

what to do with all of those Easter eggs:
asparagus à la flamande
(à ma façon)

Spring brings an abundance of delicious asparagus (white, green and purple) and Easter leaves us with an abundance of hard-boiled eggs.  This dish is a way to use both.  You can serve it as a sidedish or add a pan-seared salmon filet and make it a meal.  Either way it is delicious and that is the reason asparagus à la flamande is this week’s simple pleasure. Read the rest of this entry »

 

Easter dinner is served: roasted rack of Spring lamb, carrot velouté, and potato gratin dauphinoise.

April 21st, 2011

Easter dinner is served.  What will you do with all of your extra time?

Without fail, before every holiday I am asked: “Can I make something special that will not keep me in the kitchen for hours?” My answer is always the same: “Of course you can.”  Creating a delicious, seasonal Easter meal is no exception.

First on the menu is roasted rack of Spring lamb with a pistachio-herb panko crust. It sounds fancy, but I assure you it is quite simple.  Season the lamb the day before with salt and pepper and place it in the refrigerator overnight.  On Easter day, let the meat come to room temperature, sear it, top it with the crust mixture, and roast it.  It takes about 30 minutes total active time. The lamb recipe is below.

To go with the lamb, we are serving a light and creamy carrot velouté but without the “velouté” (velouté is a leading sauce made with a white or blonde roux and stock).  In lieu of the classic velouté (and without animal stock and heavy cream), this recipe uses fresh oranges, Spring onions, and carrots with a hint of cumin (which goes well with the pistachio crust on the lamb).  To make it Easter-festive, we are making quenelles from goat cheese (quenelles look like “Easter eggs”). Place one quenelle of goat cheese in each soup cup.  When the hot soup is ladled into the cup, the cheese begins to melt.  The soup can be made the day before and reheated and assembled on Easter (just adjust the seasoning and the consistency). The quenelles can be shaped in advance as well and placed in the refrigerator overnight.

Third, with our lamb and carrot soup we are serving a colorful fingerling potato gratin dauphinoise with sunchokes and artichokes. Sunchokes (also known as Jerusalem artichokes or topinambours) are tubers from sunflowers.  Sunchokes will only be around for a few more weeks then they are gone until next Winter. They are slightly crunchy and can be eaten raw.  They add a great texture to the creamy potatoes and artichokes. The potatoes I like to use are colorful fingerling potatoes: including French Fingerlings with pink skin, Red Thumb potatoes with the red skins and rose flesh, and Rose Finn fingerlings which have beige skins with pink accents and creamy beige flesh.  However, you can use any potatoes you have (including Peruvian with their wonderful purple hues).  The key to making a good dauphinoise is that the potatoes are all evenly sliced.  After you wash the potatoes, leave the skins on (to take advantage of the vitamins found under the potato skin and the colorful exterior). The dish  can be prepared the day before and baked on Easter day.  It tastes best warm but not piping hot (you want to give the cheese and cream a chance to solidify a little to adhere to the potatoes).  I recommend putting it in the oven about 1 hour before you plan to serve it. The soup and gratin recipes are in separate entries to make it easier for you to print and take with you to the market.

Lastly, make a simple green salad to round out your meal (there are some green salad recipes on this site). This delicious meal is easier than finding those Easter eggs (which always seem to turn up throughout the year)!  I hope you enjoy it and you will let me know what you did with all of your “extra” time.

Je vous souhaite un bon appétit et de Joyeuses Pâques (a Happy Easter) !

LM

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carrot velouté with quenelle of fresh chèvre

April 21st, 2011

carrot velouté with quenelle of fresh chèvre

stats:

yield: makes 8 cups

what you need:

soup
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/4 cup diced spring onions
1 pound young orange carrots, diced
3/4 cup fresh orange juice
1 cup carrot juice (reduced from 2 cups)
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon kosher salt (and as needed)
2 cups water (and as needed)

garnish
8 ounces goat cheese, room temperature
fresh chervil leaves (as needed)
fresh coriander flowers (as needed) Read the rest of this entry »

 

fingerling potato gratin dauphinoise with sunchokes and artichokes

April 21st, 2011

fingerling potato gratin dauphinoise with sunchokes and artichokes

stats:

yield: makes  1  10” gratin pie

what you need:

1 1/2 pound fingerling potatoes (i.e., Peruvian, French fingerlings, Rose Finn, Red Thumb), thinly sliced
1/2 pound sunchokes, peeled and thinly sliced
3 large beautiful artichoke hearts, steamed, cooled, and thinly sliced rondelle
olive oil (as needed)

grapeseed oil (as needed)|
4 garlic cloves, smashed and minced
2 shallots, thinly sliced
1/8 cup dry white wine
1 bouquet garni (fresh sage, fresh thyme sprigs, 1 bay leaf, and Italian parsley)
2 cups heavy cream
freshly ground black pepper (as needed)
kosher salt (as needed)

2 ounces grated parmesan cheese
5 ounces grated Gruyère cheese Read the rest of this entry »

 

oeufs en chocolat

April 15th, 2011

oeufs en chocolat, Pâques, and petit déjeuner chez Patrick Roger

(chocolate eggs, Easter, and breakfast at Patrick Roger’s)

Audrey Hepburn made Tiffany & Co. known as a breakfast spot.  It was not because the jewelry store serves breakfast but because in the 1961 movie, Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Hepburn’s whimsical character ate her breakfast in front of the store famous for its diamonds as well as its blue bags.  New York may have Tiffany’s but Paris has Patrick Roger.

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