two countries. many kitchens. one table.

a bouquet garni – detail with a difference

November 24th, 2010



 

 

a bouquet garni

 

Ce sont les petits choses qui font toute la différence (it is the little things that make all the difference).   In life and cooking the details matter.   A bouquet garni (a little gathering of herbs) is a detail that makes all the difference.

A bouquet garni imparts flavor to its surrounding and typically used in anything that simmers (i.e., braises, stocks, and soups).  A kitchen string keeps the herbs in a bundle and is usually tied to the handle of a stockpot (so when the garni has done its job, you grab the string and toss the bouquet).

Traditionally a bouquet garni is Italian parsley, thyme, and bay leaves wrapped inside a leek.  However, the combinations are endless (some chefs will wrap the herbs in a slice of bacon or add a piece of citrus peel).  A sachet is used like a bouquet garni but the herbs and spices (i.e., peppercorns, juniper berries) are placed inside a piece of muslin or cheesecloth.   Sachets are preferable if you are using dried herbs and small spices.  A bouquet garni (or sachet) should be small so not as to overwhelm the food, but create a subtle aroma.


This week’s simple pleasure is making a bouquet garni for use not only as a flavor enhancer but as a place-setting/party favor and a host gift.  The bouquets can be used fresh or when they dry out.  This project is easy to do.  Moreover, it adds a personal, fresh touch to your dinner (or a thoughtful host gift) and is something you can do with your children to incorporate them in preparing for the festivities.   Focusing on the detail of a few fresh herbs this Thanksgiving will impart more than flavor, it will impart smiles.

Je vous souhaite un bon appétit !

 

LM

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vegetables first

November 24th, 2010

vegetables first

When you think of the Thanksgiving meal, vegetables do not immediately come to mind.   They are side dishes and the last thing to be eaten, if at all.   It is time to change our perspective and give vegetables their proper place in our celebration of the harvest.  This year, make vegetables a first course, a purposeful dish with importance as well as a preview of more (not the only) good things to come.

Vegetables first makes sense for several reasons.  Vegetables are good for us and their texture, flavor and colors balance the bland starchy, fatty foods to follow (i.e., the mashed potatoes, stuffing, and butter-basted turkey).    Additionally, eating a modest serving of vegetables first makes us less likely to overeat the subsequent things that are not so healthy (and if you are watching your caloric intake, this will help you keep your calorie consumption down as well).

Below are three recipes for your vegetable “first course”.   All are simple to make and if you do the prep work (the washing and cutting of the vegetables) the day before then you only have to roast the vegetables on Thanksgiving day (and at the same temperature you are roasting your turkey).

A couple of comments about the vegetables.  First, always buy vegetables with their tops on.  The tops of vegetables are the first thing to decline if the vegetables are old (which is why some markets remove the tops).  Second, do not feel committed to my vegetable suggestions but buy what is freshest in your market and take advantage of the various textures and colors of the season.  Lastly, if you cannot decide which vegetable first course to serve, make two.  It is no more work  (the vegetables are all basically roasted so you can put it all on the same baking tray) and it can make things fun.   For example, if you have 12 guests, give every other person (guests # 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, and 11)  starter #2  with squash, mushrooms, and onions, and remaining 6 guests starter # 1 with carrots, turnips, and beets.   If you have a young child who is learning patterns at school this is a great way for them to practice their pattern skills by creating a pattern (i.e., ABABAB)  to correspond with plate assignments.

Keep the old traditions and add a few new.    I wish you and your family a happy and healthy Thanksgiving and, of course, je vous souhaite un bon appétit !

LM

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persimmon and apple caramel with fleur de sel

November 24th, 2010

apple and persimmon caramel with fleur de sel

Easy and delicious.  Make the most of those special persimmons and apples you found at the farmer’s market.  This caramel is great to have on-hand and the perfect companion to a range of treats:  yogurt, vanilla ice cream, warmed pears, or formage blanc.  You can also brush the caramel on roasted fall vegetables (i.e., carrots or parsnips).  If you are worried you will run out, preserve it and it will last until next year when brown sugar persimmons and caville blanc d’hiver apples reappear.

Je vous souhaite un bon appétit !

LM

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cranberry compote

November 24th, 2010

cranberry compote

Cranberries are tart, borderline bitter.  Although they need something sweet to eliminate the bitterness, no one needs to eat cranberries diluted with water and simmered in cups of granulated processed sugar.

This compote recipe keeps the cranberry flavor while eliminating the bitterness.  The cranberries are first sautéed with a dash of Cassis and then simmered in pomegranate juice (very good for you) and agave syrup (a natural syrup from the agave cactus with a mild taste and is not processed).  This compote is true to the character of cranberries and better for you.

The compote takes about 20 minutes to make and it can be done ahead of time.  You can serve the compote alone but I would add some toasted nuts such as walnuts or pecans (the fat in the nuts will balance the tart berries).   My favorite way to serve the compote is spooned over wedges of Kabocha squash.  Of course it goes well with traditional dressing and potatoes.  You can even try the compote over a rich cheesecake or walnut tart.   Simple.  Versatile.  Keep the old traditions and add a few new.

Je vous souhaite un bon appétit !

LM

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perfectly mashed potatoes

November 19th, 2010


perfectly mashed potatoes

The mistake home-cooks often make at Thanksgiving is trying to do too much.  Too many items.  Too many new recipes.   Too many ingredients.  In an effort to do everything, the basics are neglected (and the host is left stressed and exhausted). This is unfortunate because when it comes to Thanksgiving, what people want is simple:  they want a turkey that is not dry; stuffing that is neither soggy nor tastes like sawdust; and they want good mashed potatoes. Cranberries and vegetables are usually left-over, people are trying to move away from eating gravy, and if given the choice of yams or mashed potatoes, most people would choose mashed potatoes. While you may make the best gravy or perfectly brulée the marshmallows on the yams, if the mashed potatoes are gummy and the turkey is dry, no one will remember the gravy or the yams, they will remember the dry turkey and gummy potatoes.   My advice is to focus your efforts on perfecting the basics: the turkey, stuffing, and mashed potatoes, and build your  meal from there given your talents and time (i.e., if it is a question of making the stuffing or a pumpkin pie, focus your efforts on the stuffing and ask someone else to bring the pie or find a quality bakery where you can buy one).

Although turkey and stuffing may be enjoyed primarily during the holidays,  Americans’  sincere affection for mashed potatoes lasts throughout the year. Mashed potatoes should be light, creamy, soft, rich and buttery without being greasy.   Sadly, that is not often how they end up.    The key to understanding how to make perfect mashed potatoes is to understand what can go wrong and how to prevent it (or correct it).

Below is a “do” and “do not” summary followed by my mashed potato recipe.   There are only three ingredients in this recipe:  potatoes, butter, and cream.   My favorite potatoes to use are Russian Banana Fingerling but I provide suggestions of several other potato varieties that will produce equally wonderful results.   As important as using quality potatoes is using quality butter and cream.  You will notice that I provide a range of how much butter and cream to add.   Use the low range for lighter and “healthier” potatoes, use the higher range if you want richer, more restaurant-like potatoes.  If you follow these easy steps, you will have mashed potatoes that your guests will remember long after  Thanksgiving and will be requesting all year long.

Je vous souhaite un bon appétit !

LM

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braised pork and apples with melted radicchio and endive

November 12th, 2010

braised pork and apples with melted radicchio and endive

This recipe is for those of you who want a project on a chilly Fall day.   It is not hard, but it takes two days.  However,  do not let that scare you as the actual hands-on preparation requires only about two hours.   This braise takes advantage of the apple season and it is a forgiving, easy braise to do.

The “hands-on” portion is simply three parts.  Part One, you make the brine and soak the meat overnight in the refrigerator.  Part Two, you give your braise its flavor by browning your vegetables and the meat (after removing it from the brine).  Now you place everything in a Dutch oven or a crock-pot and let it braise for 8 hours on low heat and get on with your day.  Part Three, make a sauce from the cooking liquid.

Because the apples and the pork tend to go to the sweet end of the spectrum, this dish really needs the radicchio and/or endive to balance it (but you can use cabbage, kale or make an arugula salad if you prefer).   Generally I serve this dish with white cheddar buttermilk biscuits, but you can serve it with creamy white polenta or potatoes as well.

Je vous souhaite un bon appétit !

LM

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apple and aged Gouda soufflé

November 12th, 2010

soufflés

Soufflés.   Impressive to guests.   Intimidating to cooks.   This recipe will keep the impressive factor and eliminate the intimidation factor.

Sweet or savory, soufflés consist of three parts:

  • Developing the flavor (Essentially, what is the soufflé supposed to taste like?  Here, apples and cheese);
  • Making the structure (This is the foundation for the soufflé, what gives the soufflé its strength.  Here, it is a classic spice-infused béchamel bound with egg yolks); and
  • Creating a lift (This is what makes it rise.  In soufflés the rise is due to the air trapped in the whisked egg whites that turns to steam and expands with oven heat).

The first two steps can be done ahead of time and stored in the refrigerator for up to two days.   When you are ready to make it, let it come to room temperature, whisk the eggs, fold into the base and bake.

This soufflé recipe is perfect for Fall and it is versatile as it can be served as a side-dish or a dessert (after all, it really is apple pie just re-configured).  As written, this recipe is also user-friendly because you have less chance of a fallen soufflé  (the sugar in the egg whites acts as a stabilizer and the lower oven temperature allows the soufflé to cook in the middle, rather than be molten). Read the rest of this entry »

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apple sorbet

November 12th, 2010

apple sorbet

This recipe is super simple and great to keep on hand in the freezer as a “go to” dessert.  It can be served alone, accompanying a baked dessert, or with a glass of  Calvados (apple brandy).

I have given examples of apples I like to use, but do not let my list limit your creativity.  With 15,000 varieties of apples, you have many options.

I wrote this recipe to take advantage of an apple’s color and vitamins.  First, the apples are simmered in apple juice with the skins on, giving the sorbet a pretty pink color and you the benefit of the vitamin C and antioxidant compounds concentrated in the apple’s peel.  Also, I add no sugar.  If you use fresh, ripe apples, you do not need it.   Lastly,  I grated some of the uncooked apple peel, creating an apple “zest” to mix in the sorbet.  You can leave the zest out if you choose, but I think the red flakes  (or green flakes as the case may be) make the sorbet visually interesting as well as add a little texture. Je vous souhaite un bon appétit !

LM

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Thanksgiving Bellini 2010

November 12th, 2010

Thanksgiving Bellini 2010

When hosting a dinner party, regardless of the size, there should be house cocktail.  One apéritif that sets the tone for the evening and makes things easy for the host and the guests.  Thanksgiving 2010 is all about the Bellini (at least, this seasonal version).

The Bellini is a classic Italian champagne-style cocktail invented in Venice, Italy and named for the painter Giovanni Bellini. It is traditionally made with peach purée and sparking Italian wine.  The season for peaches is long gone and while you could use preserved or frozen peaches, no one wants a peach in a season filled with the warm flavors of pears, chestnuts and cranberries.   Instead of peaches, this “Bellini”uses Fuyu persimmons which are in abundance in October and November. Fuyu persimmons are sweet, warm, and wonderful.

There are several varieties of persimmons but only two are generally seen at the market: the Fuyu (which is non-astringent and can be eaten before and after it is ripe); and the Hachiya (which is astringent and bitter and can be only eaten after fully ripe).  The Fuyu persimmon can be eaten like an apple. The riper it is, the sweeter it is.  When puréed it has the consistency of a peach or an apricot nectar and orange flesh visually compliments this season of  the harvest.  The persimmon’s honey overtones pair well with the lightness of the prosecco (which has hints of apple and fruit).   As an added bonus,  prosecco is much more cost friendly than champagne (although you can use champagne if you want).

Persimmons will continue to ripen after they are picked and should be stored at room temperature.  When buying persimmons, they should be  bright orange with unblemished skin, and slightly soft.

This Bellini is a unique, delicious (and pretty) way to start your Thanksgiving festivities and after Thanksgiving they will be gone.  Did I also mention that it is ridiculously simple to make?

à votre santé !

LM

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apple notes (part two)

November 12th, 2010

apple notes (part two):
 what flavors and foods pair well with apples

Apples are an extremely versatile fruit that can pair well with warm, seasonal flavors and well as foods with a fresh, tangy profile.   Warm tones of vanilla, tonka, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, bay, caramel, butter, brown sugar, molasses, and sage.  Apples, raw or cooked, are a good companion to a variety of nuts and dried fruits including hazelnuts, pine-nuts, walnuts, almonds, cashews, pistachios, pecans, pumpkin seeds, chestnuts, raisins, currants, died berries and cranberries.  Apples go well with other fruits: pomegranates, pears, quinze, cranberries, figs, dates, oranges, and blackberries.

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