two countries. many kitchens. one table.

picking apples, planting memories

November 12th, 2010

picking apples, planting memories

John Chapman (aka Johnny Appleseed) spread apple seeds in Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois.   Ask any first-grader as Johnny Appleseed appears to be standard first-grade Fall curriculum.   The lesson is time appropriate as well as fun.

Mr Chapman and his apple seeds did not make it to California but some forty years after his death someone did and that person planted apple seeds in Glen Oaks, California, a little town nestled against the San Bernardino Mountains (about one hour and a half east of Los Angeles).  At an elevation of 5,000 feet, Glen Oaks is the perfect climate for apple growing.   It also made for the perfect family get-away one Sunday.


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truffled popcorn

November 4th, 2010

truffles

Crisp air. Falling leaves. Shorter days. Autumn has arrived. Finally. Time for boots, cashmere sweaters, consecutive holiday festivities, and my favorite, truffles!

If you are a parent you most likely have been consumed with Halloween activities for no less than one month.  Now the “tricks or-treats” have been exchanged your little ghosts and goblins are tucked in their beds.  Time for your own Halloween treat: truffled popped corn paired with a good French red wine (pardon the redundancy).   A simple, deliciously addictive, idea which takes advantage of the season.  If you do not have fresh truffles you can use truffle salt which can be ordered on the internet.   I have included additional blogs for those of you who want to learn more about truffles and how to incorporate this ingredient in your cooking with a few simple recipes beyond popcorn.  If this does not interest you, skip directly to the popcorn recipe which is below.   Happy Halloween and “bone” appétit !

LM

truffled popcorn

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venez avec moi Chez Drouant

November 2nd, 2010


There are over 40,000 restaurants in Paris.  Yet, with all of these choices, do you want to know where the chefs dine?   Chefs dine at Drouant, one of Chef Antoine Westermann’s newest restaurants settled in a quiet section of the 2ème arrondissement.  So, venez avec moi Chez Drouant (come with me to Drouant) and find out why.

LM

Drouant: where chefs dine

joking around with Chef Michel Richard at Drouant

Parisian chefs.  International chefs.  Drouant is where they go.  I know because I was there and I saw them gathering and dining.  I shared time with some of them.   Why Drouant?  What is it about this restaurant that chefs migrate to and the Goncourt Academy calls its own?  It is simple.  Owner, Michelin-starred Chef Antoine Westermann and Director Chef Antony Clémot have combined the quality and elegance you would expect from a restaurant of this caliber with the devotion and love you could only expect from your own grandmother (your culinary-trained, Michelin-starred grandmother).

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marchés et tous les bons trucs (markets and all that stuff)

November 2nd, 2010

les marchés de Paris

As early as the 5th century, market life has been a part of Parisian culture.  Originally, all markets were “covered”, meaning they were stationary and had a roof.   However, early in the 20th century many of the covered markets closed and in their place arose open-air markets which could be disassembled at the end of the day.   Today the majority of markets are open-air.

Most markets (open-air and covered) carry organic as well as non-organic products.  There are three markets dedicated solely to organic products in the 6ème, 8ème, and 17ème  arrondissements.  In addition to fresh produce, you can find meat, poultry, seafood, and diary products at the markets.  Most have prepared (hot and cold) items available as for sale, including pâtés, sausages, paëlla, roast chickens, pastas, salads, and more complicated dishes such as tajines and boeuf bourguignon.  The markets vary in size.  Larger markets will carry everything from exotic spices to household items, kitchenware, and clothing.

The markets are named for the street or place upon which they are located. While the days and times vary, you can find a market in every arrondissement.   Covered markets are open every day except Monday and close early on Sundays.  They also   close for lunch.  The open-air markets are set up for about 5 to 6 hours.  Many of the markets (open-air and closed) stay open until 7 or 8 p.m.

Below is a list of the Paris markets (minus two) with their locations, days and times.  This list will be continually updated.  However,  if you are planning a trip to Paris, it is best to verify times and days with France Guide (us.franceguide.com) the official site of the French Government Tourist Office before you go as some of the markets’ locations have changed due to tram construction.  When in Paris you can also get a list of the markets from the mayor’s office.

Bonne courses !

LM

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truffled omelet with mushrooms

October 29th, 2010

truffled omelet with mushrooms and green salad

This recipe is another simple way to incorporate truffles into your cooking repertoire.   The omelet can be made for breakfast, dinner, or something in-between.  If you do not have truffles (fresh or canned), do not worry you can make this omelet with truffled butter and/or truffled salt.

Hen of the Woods mushrooms are my favorite mushrooms to use; however, I have listed some alternatives that are equally as nice.  It  is critical that you use fresh eggs.  You can tell an egg is fresh if the yolk is firm and bright yellow and the white of the egg stays together.  If the egg is old it will lose density and spread out thinly.

Serve the omelet with small, roasted potatoes (my favorites are ozette, Russian banana fingerling or red French fingerling) and/or a simple mixed green salad.  Squeeze some fresh oranges and you have breakfast or brunch.  Conversely, serve with red wine (or milk as the case may be as with my children) and the omelet is lunch or dinner.  If you want a snack, you can scramble the eggs instead of making an omelet and serve it on toasted bread for a tartine.  Versatile.  Simple.

Je vous souhaite un bon appétit !

LM

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truffled truffles

October 29th, 2010

truffled truffles with a dessert wine

Take advantage of the truffle season and satisfy your sweet tooth at the same time.  This recipe takes a few hours but that is only to let the chocolate interior set – so do not let the “few hours” scare you.   In fact, because the truffles can be made ahead of time or spread out over a couple days (you can make the interior one day and temper the chocolate exterior the next day), they are a perfect dessert for a dinner party.

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all about truffles (part two)

October 29th, 2010


how to clean and store truffles

Do not remove the dirt from the truffles until you are ready to use them.  Truffles store in the refrigerator for a few days.  Wrap them in a paper-bag or paper towel and place the bag with some rice in a glass jar.  Close tightly.  Change the wrapping on the truffles every day as you would cheese.

To clean truffles, soak them in warm water (about 30 minutes) and then rub the dirt off with your hands. Change the water and use a brush to remove all of the dirt from the truffle.  Continue to change the water as you would for rice.  Once the water is clean, dry the truffle well with a towel.  Truffles can be sliced and soaked in wine or brandy to prolong their life.  Truffles can be preserved by vacuum sealing them and then freezing them.

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all about truffles (part one)

October 24th, 2010

what are truffles? and why do they cost so much money!

Truffles are a subterranean fungus (although their botanical names identify them as a tuber) that grow near tree roots (primarily Oak).   Truffles are expensive primarily due to ever-increasing demand combined with an ever-increasingly low production.  Combine that with their  labor-intensive collection and their limited storage and you have a gastronomical rarity to be treasured.

The harvesting and sale of truffles is serious business.  Pigs or dogs (today primarily the latter) root out the subterranean fungus, accompanied by a trufficulteur.   The trufficulteur uncovers the each truffle (but not with his hands) and then replaces the dirt where he removed the truffle.  Once harvested, the truffles are taken to the “truffle exchange” (my term), markets where the truffles are carefully weighed and money is exchanged with a courtier (a truffle broker).

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in love…with Paris (video)

October 23rd, 2010
 

making foccacia is child’s play (date foccacia video)

October 22nd, 2010