lazy days of summer: watermelon and heirloom tomato salad
Nothing says summer more than juicy ripe watermelon and vine-ripened tomatoes. We enjoy them separately and find ways to include them in various meals. Together these two fruits are devine (as well as good for you and keep you looking young) and for these reasons a watermelon and heirloom tomato salad is this week’s simple pleasure. Read the rest of this entry »
summer provençal tian: more than a dish
In Provence there is a regional speciality simply known as “tian.” The name actually refers to the dish the food is cooked in rather than the food itself (a “tian” is a shallow baking dish). This week we are modifying the classic tian but staying true to the flavors of provence and a provençal tian is this week’s simple pleasure. Read the rest of this entry »
it is hot in here: tarte flamblée with Alsacian slaw … “ah weee”
The region of Alsace is beautiful and full of wonderful people, A.O.C. wines (such as Muscat, Gerwürztraminer, and Riesling) and its own culinary traditions one of which is tarte flamblée (also known as flammeküche). In a nod to this special region of France, tarte flamblée served with a lardon and apple cabbage slaw is this week’s simple pleasure.
Alsacian slaw with lardons and apples
stats:
serves 4-6
what you need:
1/2 pound (8 ounces) thinly sliced green cabbage
4 ounces diced granny smith apples Read the rest of this entry »
a fish, a bag and all that Paris glitter:
crispy, shiny loup de mer with Umbrian lentils
Los Angeles children are very en vogue. For the last few months teens, tweens and even the little ones younger have clamored for “a feather” in their hair and for shirts with sequined patches and logos. At the same time on the old continent, Paris nightlife is all about burlesque and la tendance in fashion is feathers and sequins. It is Moulin Rouge with the sleekness of the 21st century. With the exception of a fashion model’s diet, there is often a connection between fashion and food. In Paris I found a fish handbag made of sequins, representing the fish’s scales. As I look at the purse I see no reason why that Parisian fashion glitter and glamour cannot be on our dinner plates as well. It can. So inspired by this sequin fish purse, shiny loup de mer on a bed of Umbrian lentils is this week’s simple pleasure.
crispy and shiny loup de mer with Umbrian lentils
stats
serves 4-6
what you need:
fish
4 fillet of loup de mer (or rouget), skin and scales on
kosher salt, as needed
freshly ground pepper, as needed
olive oil, as needed
panier de crudités avec anchoïade
This Memorial Day weekend get a jump on summer with a Provençal panier de crudités avec anchoïade. You will feel like you are on vacation at the Côte d’Azur and that is why it is this week’s “simple pleasure.“ Read the rest of this entry »
roasted brussels sprouts and chestnuts
serves: 6-8
what you need:
1/2 cup lardon or pancetta, cubed
1 pound brussels sprouts, halved
12 chestnuts, steamed and halved (shells and skins removed)
olive oil (as needed)
kosher salt (as needed)
freshly ground black pepper (as needed)
how to:
gingerbread dolls
The holidays are a time when parents take multi-tasking to all new levels. I have children myself so I am no exception. In fact, I became very aware of my parental multi-tasking when during a lunchtime run I simultaneously collected mulberry tree trimmings for garland and table decor, planned dinner menus and organized their execution in my head while at the same time listened to Selena Gomez (just to stay current on the music my children are listening to). A woman, walking her dog, stared at me and her gaze made me conscious of how absurd I looked running with my large collection of mulberry branches in each hand, singing Selena Gomez songs. The explanation “I’m a mom” immediately spilled from my mouth and she laughed. She understood. It is the final push before winter break and parents are scrambling to get everything done for the holidays before the children are home needing projects to do. I have an answer to both (at least for one afternoon): gingerbread dolls. An edible version of paper dolls, this project gives you your gingerbread for the holidays and the kids a project too.
While you can buy gingerbread kits in the stores, I have yet to find one that actually tastes good. These gingerbread cookies are chewy and moist, crisp around the edges, spicy, but not too much, and hold their shape for decorating. The recipe is simple and written with children in mind. Instead of creaming the eggs and the butter, this basically uses a one step method (you can use a stand alone mixer or a food processor) which makes it not only easy for children but “child-proofs” the tendency to over-cream the sugar and butter, which causes the cookies to spread. I have included two recipes: one written for adults (below); and the second written (with pictures) that a beginning reader can follow.
Once the cookies are made, rolled fondant is used to make the clothes. Fondant can be purchased online and at cake supply stores and well as craft stores. You can purchase it in a variety of colors but white can be easily colored by adding food coloring. Although there is a fondant rolling pin it is not necessary for this project. If the fondant is sticking simply use a little powdered sugar on your hands and rolling pin. A pie cutter, a dull knife, kitchen scissors (or even a plastic play-dough cutter) can be used to tailor the clothing. Spices, sprinkles and candies make nice accessories but let your child’s imagination be their guide. Use royal icing (recipe posted) to adhere the clothing to the cookies or if the fondant dries the clothes will come off of the cookie (which can be good too if your cookie is a fashionista and wants to change her clothes).
A couple of notes on the ingredients. This recipe uses both dark muscovado sugar and dark brown sugar. Muscovado is unrefined sugar made from sugarcane juice which has a high molasses content. It is a wonderfully spicy, moist and aromatic. It adds a richness to the cookies that dark brown sugar alone cannot give you. It also has small, dark bits of molasses-sugar which adds character in appearance and taste (all gingerbread should have freckles as well as laugh-lines). You can crush them for a more uniform look but the small bits do not affect the cookie adversely unless they are too big. Do not use muscovado sugar exclusively for cookies or they will be too spicy. You can eliminate it and use only dark brown sugar; however, do not use light brown sugar or the cookies will be plain and uninteresting (in taste and appearance).
Make sure your butter is room temperature (which means it is pliable but not too soft). Cut it into chunks because you want to make sure it is incorporated with the other ingredients.
Molasses is the ingredient which gives gingerbread its character. Molasses is the liquid byproduct of boiling sugarcane until the sucrose crystalizes to create granulated sugar. There are three grades of molasses and the difference lies in which boiling (the first, the second, or the third) produced the molasses. All grades can be sulphured or unsulphured. Light molasses is produced from the first boiling, dark molasses from the second, and blackstrap from the third boiling. The molasses I recommend using for these cookies is Grandma’s original unsulphured molasses (yes, the very same one our parents used when we were kids). I have tried several, the organic ones, the darker molasses, and blackstrap, and while I use these others for spice cakes, they are too spicy for cookies.
Lastly, under-bake the cookies to achieve a chewy consistency. When small cracks in the cookies begin to form, take the cookies out of the oven and let the carry-over heat from the baking pan continue to bake the cookies for about 2-3 minutes. Then place the cookies on a metal rack to cool. If you want crisp cookies, bake them longer, roll them flatter, and/or reduce the oven temperature slightly. Store the cookies in an air-tight container for freshness and they should last a few days (assuming they are not eaten before then).
Simple. Delicious. Project!
Je vous souhaite un bon appétit !
LM
vin chaud
Le vin chaud (hot wine or “mulled wine”) is a warm, festive treat for the holidays that is easy to make (the simmering wine makes your home smell good too). Here are a few suggestions to help you with your preparation.
First, I like to toast the spices and fruit in a dry pan before adding the wine because that intensifies their flavor. Once the spices are fragrant and a fond from the fruit has begun to form on the pan bottom, I add a touch of brandy and then immediately add the wine. The brandy adds a nice depth to the wine and releases the fond from the pan (however omit the brandy if you are simmering cider instead of wine).
Second, simmer the wine for about 45 minutes. Do not boil the wine or simmer longer than one hour or the wine will become bitter. Do not simmer for less than 30 minutes because the spices will not have been infused. You can add additional spices to your taste (I often I add licorice root as well); however, do not add any ground spices or your wine will be chalky and cloudy.
Third, most mulled wine recipes add sugar to the wine (anywhere from 1/4 to 1 cup per bottle). I omit the sugar completely. It is not necessary and wine already has sugar in it. However, I do add a couple of dried cherries (you can use raisins if you want) which slightly sweeten the wine and compliment the fruit overtones in the wine.
Fourth, with respect to the wine, avoid earthy Bordeauxs and full-bodied Cabernets. Use a medium-bodied red wine such as a Pinot Noir or Red Zinfandel (although Merlot and Shiraz could work as well). I include two Pinot Noir recommendations below (thanks to my friend Mark at The Wine House). The Cloudline (from Oregon) is more fruit forward while the Santa Maria Pinot is more of a subtle, classic Pinot Noir. Choose according to your taste preference.
Lastly, I am always asked how much money to spend on a bottle of wine with which you are going to cook. In my opinion, you can neither select nor eliminate a wine based solely upon price (price is also subjective). Instead, my rule of thumb is that you should buy a wine that you would drink and enjoy but not a wine that you would sip and savor.
Santé !
LM
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