Porcini Parmentier
with crispy shallots and garlic and mushroom jus
Hachis Parmentier or Parmentier is the French version of the English Shepherd’s Pie, to which people more often refer probably because it seems easier to pronounce. Any way you dish it, parmentier is comfort food. Hearty and warm. Perfect for the winter weather.
Let it snow (or rain). Read the rest of this entry »
falling leaves in Paris and autumn simplicity on your plate:
scallop “macarons” with chanterelles and thyme
I have only seen it snow once in Paris and the snow didn’t stick. This year while Paris has seen a couple rainy and “see your breath” chilly days, overall it has been beautiful and 5 or 6 degrees Celsius warmer than usual for late November. Parisians have been out in droves, profiting from the gift of warmer weather. Although the holidays are approaching, right now it is not holiday decor which covers the city, but blankets of golden leaves. Watching Parisians play in the leaves (and the city workers haul mounds of the leaves to compost piles) I thought of the poem Gathering Leaves by Robert Frost where he talks about the lightness and the “harvest” of falling leaves. I wanted to “harvest” leaves. In particular, I wanted to capture the color scheme and lightness of these golden leaves and the flavors of autumn and put it on a plate in a simply way. That thought inspired this week’s simple pleasure: seared scallop “macarons” with chanterelles and fresh thyme.
seared scallop macarons with chanterelles and thyme
serves 4
what you need:
sauté
1-2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 cups sliced chanterelles and champignons de Paris (or white mushrooms)
½ teaspoon fresh French thyme leaves
1 teaspoon minced fresh Italian parsley
⅛ cup dry white wine (or Grappa)
kosher salt (as needed)
freshly ground black pepper as needed
spaghetti squash à la carbonara (spaghetti squash carbonara)
(une carbonara pas commes les autres !)
(remember to read through the entire recipe to
understand the sequence of events. There are only a few steps, but its best to do them
in the suggested order)
serves 6-8
what you need:
1 spaghetti squash (approx 2 pounds, 5 ounces)
fresh thyme sprigs Read the rest of this entry »
(my) steak au poivre vert
stats:
serves 4
takes 25 minutes (10 minutes inactive)
what you need:
4 steaks (filets or new york cuts), organic and grass-fed beef
1½ tablespoons gros sel de Guérande (or sea salt)
1½ tablespoons fresh French thyme leaves
2 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon green (dried) peppercorns, crushed
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 teaspoon brandy Read the rest of this entry »
cabillaud au thym en papillote (steamed cod with thyme)
serves 4
what you need:
4 beautiful, fresh cod fillets
kosher salt (as needed)
freshly ground black pepper (as needed)
olive oil (as needed)
4 handfuls of fresh thyme sprigs
4 rectangular sheets of parchment paper
kitchen twine (as needed) Read the rest of this entry »
picking cherries in the valley of the Gods: venez avec moi à Gordes
It is 9:30 p.m. and the sun is setting, but not so quickly. The sun is taking its time; everyone is. It is difficult to put an end to a day filled with Provençal sun, the calming smell of lavender, and the song of the complacent cicadas. As I write, I see expansive green valleys filled with cherry trees below me. The sound of pea-gravel crunching under the waiter’s feet (as he brings me a Châteauneuf-du-Pape and something warm for my shoulders) is only a momentary distraction from the twenty birds swirling above my head trying to get in their last flight before heading to bed. I am in Luberon. I have eaten and explored my way through the day: jambon with truffles; cherries I picked off the trees; fougasse lush with salty olives and olive oil; wild boar sausage; fresh chèvre bathed in crushed lavender and honey, aïoli with perfectly steamed vegetables; rosés from nearby vineyards; hearty and robust reds from nearby Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I think I found the land of the Gods and perhaps that is why the Romans had once claimed it as their own centuries ago. It am in Gordes and it is Gordes which inspired this week’s simple pleasure, cherries poached in fresh lavender and thyme. However, before you go there, come with me to one of the Luberon’s most beautiful villages: venez avec moi à Gordes.
ceries aux lavande et thym
(cherries poached with lavender and thyme)
serves 6-8
what you need:
24-30 firm, ripe red cherries, stems removed (pits reserved)
2 cups water
2 tablespoons of lavender flowers (tied in cheesecloth)
4 tablespoons superfine sugar
2-3 sprigs of fresh thyme
1 piece of lemon peel
duck, duck, tart:
duck and kale savory tartlet with black chanterelles, fresh sage and thyme
“Duck, duck, goose…” On a recent return from France I sat next to a man from Toulouse and our conversation began by discussing ducks and geese, although in the culinary-sense, not related to the childhood game. It was an natural topic of conversation because Toulouse is well-known for its ducks and geese and boasts regional specialities such as foie gras, cassoulet, and garbure. The temperature has finally caught up with the calendar and everyone is craving comfort food. My transatlantic conversation (and the fact that it is duck season) inspired this week’s simple pleasure: duck and kale savory tartlets with black chanterelles, fresh sage, and thyme. Comfort food, redefined. Read the rest of this entry »
a bouquet garni
Ce sont les petits choses qui font toute la différence (it is the little things that make all the difference). In life and cooking the details matter. A bouquet garni (a little gathering of herbs) is a detail that makes all the difference.
A bouquet garni imparts flavor to its surrounding and typically used in anything that simmers (i.e., braises, stocks, and soups). A kitchen string keeps the herbs in a bundle and is usually tied to the handle of a stockpot (so when the garni has done its job, you grab the string and toss the bouquet).
Traditionally a bouquet garni is Italian parsley, thyme, and bay leaves wrapped inside a leek. However, the combinations are endless (some chefs will wrap the herbs in a slice of bacon or add a piece of citrus peel). A sachet is used like a bouquet garni but the herbs and spices (i.e., peppercorns, juniper berries) are placed inside a piece of muslin or cheesecloth. Sachets are preferable if you are using dried herbs and small spices. A bouquet garni (or sachet) should be small so not as to overwhelm the food, but create a subtle aroma.
This week’s simple pleasure is making a bouquet garni for use not only as a flavor enhancer but as a place-setting/party favor and a host gift. The bouquets can be used fresh or when they dry out. This project is easy to do. Moreover, it adds a personal, fresh touch to your dinner (or a thoughtful host gift) and is something you can do with your children to incorporate them in preparing for the festivities. Focusing on the detail of a few fresh herbs this Thanksgiving will impart more than flavor, it will impart smiles.
Je vous souhaite un bon appétit !
LM
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